For the initial not many weeks I climbed just delicate works of art and did a few scrambles like the ‘Ersfjord cross’ in Kvaløya with my companion Jukka. Nothing excessively overwhelming after a campaign to the Greater Ranges and an absence of rock climbing wellness.
In 2020 I had detected a cool looking face from satellite pictures, situated on the island of Moskensøya, in the far west corner of Lofoten. It appeared to be exceptionally remote and difficult to reach because of steep ocean precipices guarding the methodology on the two sides of the shore. After some seriously looking through I had the option to discover just one picture from this face, taken from a boat. It showed a brilliant prod parting the slabby face down the middle. It just asked to be climbed.무료야동
Back to August 2021. After a progression of spontaneous occasions I collaborated with Misha Mishin, a Russian climber who lives in Finland, however who was currently working at Lofoten and was free for a few days of climbing.
On Friday evening we headed to Reine and took a boat to Vinstad from where we should begin climbing to the face. It was extremely blustery and in the end we chose to rest in a sitting area at the Vinstad harbor, rather than in our tents. A bit like climbing bums, however we kept the room clean.
On the next morning we began climbing at 6am, conveying just little knapsacks. We followed a weak path over a mountain pass to the Hermannsdal valley to arrive at the west shoreline of Moskensøya. Then, at that point, we followed the shore line up north for 1km, moving over ocean water gullies and steep grass inclines. By sheer karma it was feasible and way less tiring than we’d envisioned.
The West substance of Storskiva (848m) looked very scary from the shore. Its left side is presumably the steepest in Lofoten, while the right side vaunted a similarly forcing piece with some roofsIn the center of these two lay the prod, with just persistent looking break framework on the whole face. That was our line.
To get to the prod legitimate we expected to climb four pitches on broken pieces heading somewhat left. Not troublesome in fact, however the pieces were extremely conservative and the assurance poor.
It was early afternoon when we fired up the principle spike. The following eleven pitches gave some exceptionally differed climbing. The stone was probably the best I have seen, however the primary issue was grass in the breaks which made climbing exceptionally intense and slow. On certain pitches we expected to uncover each stuff arrangement and on some we were hand sticking and squeezing tufts of grass or scratching mud pockets to remain on the divider. The nut instrument was our dearest companion.
To a great extent we experienced some quicker free climbing pitches, however the going was chiefly sluggish, changing from simple guide to intense chunks. Regularly we expected to drop the pioneer down to get more stuff to have the option to finish pitches simply 30m high.
Having said that, we were likewise extremely fortunate that the make framework ran straight laugh hysterically and that we didn’t need to do any large crosses. It would be a three-star free move without all the greenery in the breaks.
The area was astounding, with hawks hovering over our heads, floods of the Atlantic Ocean seething right from the North Pole, and not a single cell phone gathering in sight anyplace. Genuine experience climbing. The breeze was freezing however which made for great grinding, yet we were freezing.
At 23:00 we arrived at a major grass edge and figured the climbing would be finished, however we actually expected to do one leave pitch to arrive at simpler landscape. By and by we were fortunate that we overcame the stone boundary on our first attempt as it was at that point black as night and we did not know which break would lead us upwards.